








Base build, compaction, falls, mortar bed and jointing — the things that determine whether a reclaimed Yorkstone patio lasts decades or fails in the first winter. Ground conditions and drainage on your site will change the details.
Laying reclaimed Yorkstone flags is straightforward when the base and falls are right. Most failed patios come down to one thing: not enough compaction. This guide covers everything from clearing and sub-base depth through to your jointing choices — in the order you'll actually do the work.
The base is the most important part of the job. Get this right and the rest follows. Rush it and flags will rock, settle unevenly or push water back towards the house.
Dig to allow for: sub-base + mortar bed + flag thickness + 10–15mm below any DPC or threshold. Typical overall depth below finished level is 200–250mm. Peg out your finished levels at this stage — don't guess later.
Compact in layers of no more than 75–100mm — not all at once. A wacker plate is the right tool; avoid just rolling over the top. Check with a level across the area as you go. If the surface springs back when you walk on it, it hasn't been compacted enough.
Pour a watering can over the compacted sub-base. Water should drain within a few minutes — if it ponds, recheck your falls at sub-base level before continuing. It's much easier to fix now than under finished flags.
For a domestic pedestrian patio, 100mm is standard. Go deeper if ground is soft or clayey.
| Use | MOT Type 1 depth | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Domestic patio | 100mm | Standard condition. Clay or soft ground: go to 150mm. |
| Garden path | 75–100mm | Lighter use; 75mm fine on firm ground. |
| Driveway / vehicle | 150–200mm | Flags aren't recommended for main vehicle areas — use setts. |
Falls move water off the surface and away from the building. Too flat and water sits. Too steep and it looks wrong and can be slippery. The sweet spot for most patios is 1:80 to 1:60 (12–16mm fall per metre).
Fall away from the house — typically towards a lawn, bed or drain. If you have a wall or fence at the low side, plan where the water exits. Don't let it pool against a boundary.
Use timber profiles and string lines at your finished level before mortar goes down. Check the fall every metre with a spirit level and tape. You can buy or hire a level with a "fall" setting — useful for longer runs.
Keep the sub-base as flat as possible, then use the mortar bed to create the fall. Varies in depth (30–50mm) allow you to adjust each flag slightly for both level and fall without large voids.
Reclaimed flags vary in thickness. Soak each flag briefly before bedding — a dry flag sucks moisture from the mortar too fast and the bond fails. Lay a trial run without mortar first to get your coursing and cut positions worked out.
5 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement, dry or just damp enough to hold its shape when squeezed. Too wet and it won't compact under the flag; too dry and it won't set. Aim for a consistency like damp beach sand.
Lay the mortar bed to roughly 40mm. Use a rubber mallet to bed each flag firmly — tap from the centre outward. Check against your string line for fall and level. Full contact under the flag avoids hollow spots that crack under load.
10–15mm joints are typical for reclaimed flags — they're not as uniform as new stone so some variation is natural and looks right. Use tile spacers or timber offcuts to keep spacing consistent while mortar cures. Don't walk on laid flags for 24–48 hours.
Mark cuts with chalk and use an angle grinder with a stone disc, or hire a slab splitter for straight cuts. Always wear eye and face protection. Cut flags last — work out from a fixed straight edge so cuts land on borders, not in the field.
Leave joints 24–48 hours after laying before filling. Wet joints when the mortar is still green can cause staining. There are three main approaches — each suits a different finish:
| Method | Look & character | Durability | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Mortar pointing 3:1 sand/cement | Solid, classic, slightly formal | Very good | Most domestic patios. Reliable long-term. |
| Kiln-dried sand brush-in | Softer, informal, allows movement | Moderate — needs topping up | Large patios where thermal movement is a concern. Not ideal for vehicle areas. |
| Resin jointing compound | Very neat, tight, weed-resistant | Excellent | Where weed suppression is a priority. Higher cost. |
Most patio failures come back to one of these. Worth reading before you start.
The surface looks solid. The middle isn't. Flags settle unevenly, joints open, water ponds. Use a wacker plate, compact in 75–100mm lifts, and do a boot test — if it moves, compact more.
Water sitting on the patio erodes pointing, gets under flags and causes heave in frost. Set your string lines before the first barrow of hardcore. It's nearly impossible to retrofit adequate falls.
Wet mortar doesn't compact; it squeezes out rather than packing under the stone. Semi-dry (squeeze test — should hold shape) gives you a solid full-contact bed. A flag with voids beneath it will crack under point load.
Dry reclaimed stone pulls moisture out of the mortar before it can cure properly — resulting in a weak bond. Briefly wet the underface with a hose or bucket 30 minutes before laying. Don't saturate — surface damp is enough.
Reclaimed flags aren't made to order. If you run short mid-job, matching exactly from a different batch is hard. Order 10% extra minimum, more if the layout involves complex cuts or patterns.
For a domestic pedestrian patio, 50mm+ is comfortable. Thinner reclaimed flags (38–50mm) can be used but need full-contact mortar bedding and good compaction beneath. Avoid using very thin flags (<35mm) in high-use areas.
For a domestic patio — not recommended. Flags move with sand in freeze-thaw cycles and joints fill with weeds quickly. Mortar bedding gives a far more stable and long-term result. Sand-bed works better for setts with tight joints.
Allow 24 hours minimum before walking on the flags, and 48 hours before any load. Pointing should be left to cure for 48–72 hours before foot traffic. Keep covered if rain is expected.
Not always necessary. Reclaimed Yorkstone develops a patina that looks right unsealed. If you want to limit staining (near a BBQ, etc.), use a breathable natural stone sealer — not a waterproof coat that traps moisture. Test on a hidden corner first.
Usually: a hollow void beneath the flag, too-strong pointing that doesn't flex, or a flag that's too thin for the load. Full contact bed, appropriate mortar strength and correct flag thickness for the use cover most cases.
Measure the area in m², add 10% for cuts and wastage. Contact us with the dimensions and we'll help you work out quantities and likely mix of sizes from stock.
Reclaimed Yorkstone flags (UK): Steptoe's Yard supplies reclaimed Yorkstone flags for patios, paths and steps, with delivery available UK-wide. Call 01254 233227 or use the contact form for stone matching and quantity advice.